Thursday, March 29, 2012

Late March Beach Vacation

With the continuation of above freezing temperatures, melting snow, and the longer days, I decided it was finally time to take a trip to the beach.  :)

Mount Redoubt and the Gulls
The Kenai mudflats are cool.  Tide varies by 15-20 feet depending on the day and at low tide, a vast amount of mudflats are exposed.  I can only imagine in true spring the number of bird species that inhabit that stretch of habitat.  The day I went, only gulls were on the flats.



Ice on the beach


There's also still a LOT of ice on shore, which is even more cool.  Small pieces and melting pieces and pieces bigger than me.  All of them were brown mostly from the muddy sand on the beach, but they all were shaped different by the waved and melt.  Each had a story I'll never know.  It was neat.



Notice tripod against ice

The other cool thing about this beach is that to the north, you can see Mount Redoubt and the mountain range it's a part of.  Which makes sunset quite spectacular.  I've seen a lot of beach sunsets, but never a beach-mountain sunset combo.  It might be one of my favorites to date.


I sat on the beach for awhile and listed to the gentle waves hit the beach.  It was nice to hear the water again.  For a moment, it really did feel like being at home.

"Do you want to go to the seaside?
I'm not trying to say that everybody wants to go,
But I fell in love on the seaside."


Sunday, March 25, 2012

Late March - Spring time

Snowshoe hare
Sunday March 25th, 2012

Well Alaska is finally warming up (a balmy 36 degrees today).  After studying for the GREs all morning, I decided it was about time I make back outside and begin discover Alaska's wild side while not having to freeze my ass off (quite appreciated!).  It being late in the day already, I decided to just stick to the short refuge trail down to the lake before the lake thawed enough that I couldn't walk on it.


My whole time here in Alaska I've been obsessed with returning back to Idaho.  In turn, I haven't really experienced and enjoyed Alaska the way I should have.  Thankfully I've been given a second change and have another 6 months here, BUT, I only have 3 weeks left on the peninsula, which is unfortunate because the more I see and learn, the more I could easily see myself staying here for a couple years. :)

Life at last.


Anyway, my short walk was much needed.  It was sunny and the snow was melting, so the air actually smelled like spring (and felt like it).  My short "hike" didn't consist of much, and to my surprise, I didn't see any birds besides ravens, but it was good nonetheless.  My curious nature popped out as usual as I wondered about the tree and shrub species starting to make their return.  I'm excited to learn my wildflowers this summer!



I'm hopefully going on a hike Friday to Carter Lake with a new friend here, which will be fantastic.  My first time really exploring the Chugach National Forest.  Despite how excited I am to explore Denali National Park, I do hope I get to make back to the peninsula a good handful of times this summer.  Who knows - Maybe I'll stick around again this winter.




Sometimes it's the little things that make the biggest difference.

Monday, March 19, 2012

Narrative: My Silence

My innocent and naive childhood years were spent in Alaska just South of Fairbanks on Eielson Air Force Base.  Most of my memories take place outside, from winter to summer, and everything in between.  What I don’t remember, is ever hearing silence.  Winters were filled with snow machining and the slow but steady traffic that occurred on base.  Summers were spent doing endless amounts of camping, but as a family of 5 we were always making noise.  Even while fishing I remember the sound of the casting and reeling of our rods and old men cracking old men jokes on neighboring boats.  In-between all of that was the constant reminder of living on a base: Fighter jets, a noise that as a military brat, I loved hearing and still do to this day.

When I moved to SE Virginia during my pubescent teen years, the noises changed, but I still never remember silence.  Living in the suburbs of Hampton Roads meant the endless noise of man-made sound pollution, but I was fortunate enough to live in a smaller town moderately separated from it all.  Our house was situated at the end of our road, nestled gently beside an inlet that led to the ocean.
Spring and summer were filled with crickets, the moaning of bull frogs, and the constant hum of motor boats cruising in and out of our small inlet.  Noise from our distant neighbors echoed across the water as the sounds bounced back and forth like unanswered conversation.   Most of my winter memories are on the ski slopes, listening to my snowboard carving fresh corduroy, the chairlifts crank and pop as they passed over us, and the sound of starting buzzers and cheering when I began slalom racing in college.

My world was rarely, if ever, silent.  Not the real silence at least.  The kind of silence that is so quiet it’s almost deafening.  The kind where when you stand still, you hear your own ears ringing.  The kind of silence that is peaceful, but at the same time, terrifying.

After spending almost 10 years in Virginia, I left the big cities and began seasonal work in South-Central Idaho.  Most of my summer was spent in the desert.  I camped on the job, miles away from the nearest city, and on the weekends I hiked and backpacked the majestic Sawtooth Mountains.  Desolate dirt roads, high alpine lakes, and the persistent smell of Ponderosa Pine entered my soul and never left, even when I did go into town.

I had found a peacefulness and serenity I had never experienced anywhere else and for the first time I thought I had experienced true silence.  But as I sat to enjoy a peaceful lake on one of my many hikes, I realized I had only escaped the man-made noises.  Aspen trees shook in the wind, birds and squirrels exchanged gentle conversation, and the streams gurgled with the snow melt that continued well into October.

My world was not silent.

With my seasonal work ending in Idaho, I began new work in Southern Alaska on the Kenai Peninsula.  My long plane ride, filled with a constant coughing, crying, and whispering, left me wondering if I would find the same peace I had discovered in Idaho.  My job, ironically enough, was going to be to listen.  To explore the different parts of the Kenai NWR and simply listen.

I lived in town.  Snow machines, snow plows, and airplanes were a constant reminder of civilization.  Darkness came earlier than I remembered, but it never masked the noise.  Even on the job, I was surrounded by an uncanny amount of sound.  Packs shifting, snowshoes crunching snow, the heavy breathing that inevitable occurred from our winter hikes.  And during snow machine trips there was always the loud hum of the machine's engine.

Silence felt impossible.

When I wasn't in the field, I was stuck inside, listening.  We recorded sound for days at a time, sometimes months, and it was my job to listen to every single recording and document what I heard. Snow machines, airplanes, ravens, chickadees and wind were all common occurrences that came to me as no surprise.  They were all things I heard on a regular basis.

What did surprise me though, was the amount of silence I documented, which easily made up the majority of the "noise".

On our recordings though, silence wasn't recorded as silence, but instead as white noise.  A jargon of sounds unpleasant to the ear.  Silence created the same noise as a TV not on a receiving channel.  A blur of absolutely nothing.  It caught me off guard.  Silence had a sound.

So I made it my goal to find this silence that I heard.  On our next outing, once my coworker and I reached the end of our hike, we sat, closed our eyes, and we listened.  It was the dead of winter.  Early January, no wind, but a bitter negative 23 degrees below Fahrenheit. I was convinced we were the only animals stupid enough to be on the rocky outcrop, exposed.


I heard nothing.

There was no white noise like the recording suggested.  But instead, it was like for a moment my entire world was paralyzed.  All my senses ceased to exist.

I heard nothing. I smelled nothing. I tasted nothing. I saw nothing. I felt nothing.

And that's when the silence became deafening. 

I began to hear a ringing in my ears.  It reminded me of how I felt after loud concerts, only there was no music.  My entire body shook from the feeling of my heart beating and I could literally feel my breathing slow. I opened my eyes, but my entire world was frozen. A photographic image in my head that even as I looked around, didn't move.

I had experienced silence.

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Old News - Early March: Largest Solar Flare in 5 Years

On March 6th there was a giant solar flare, apparently the largest one in 5 years, creating 2 M-Class flares and one X-Class flare (AKA - Really big).

Solar flares are classified as A, B, C, M or X according to peak flux of 100 to 800 picometer X-rays near Earth (Yeah I don't know what that means either).  X-Class flares are big enough though that they can give people on airplanes small radiation doses if they are flying near the poles.  Pretty intense.

Aurora in Fairbanks
So  solar flare is a sudden brightening observed over the sun surface, which is interpreted as a large energy release.  The flare ejects clouds of electrons, ions, and atoms in space.  Then these clouds reach Earth a day or two afterwards.

So why do I bring this up?  The aurora borealis, of course.  :) Auroras (AKA the Norther Lights) is caused by the collision of energetic charges particles with atoms high in the atmosphere.  Big solar flare = epic northern lights.

Seeing the northern lights is fairly rare in southern Alaska compared to Central Alaska.  So while giant flares such as this one to actually pose risks to Earth, it was good news regardless.  We had visibility down here for a couple days.  And the views were amazing.  :)  My photography does not do it justice.




"Look at the stars,
Look how they shine for you,
And everything you do."
-Coldplay


Friday, March 16, 2012

March 16th, 2012 - Is Silence Going Extinct?

Today was mostly a lab day for me.  My boss took off... surprise surprise.  So I stayed inside and played with data.  Nothing glorious, but exciting nonetheless.  It's always nice to see raw data start to actually turn into something meaningful!

On a more serious note though, I am daily getting more and more excited about my new job in Denali National Park.  The more information I get about it, the more I feel like this move is the right one and big big things are going to come from it.

My point in bringing that up is that there was an article in the NY Times today about the work being done at Denali, the work I get to help with!.  Pretty awesome that the field of Soundscape Ecology is finally getting some recognition, the recognition it deserves.

Here's the link.  It's a long read, but worth at least reading the beginning.  Is Silence Going Extinct?

It's not about finding silence or finding noise.  It's about finding how it all fits together.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

March 15th - Snowmachining Tustamena Lake

Already - Gunna try something new in hopes that I'll be updating this on a more weekly basis!


Thursday March 18th, 2012:

We went snow machining today on the south side of Tustamena Lake.  It was me, my supervisor, and one of our L.E. guys.  The morning had started out snowy.  We had about 3 inches of fresh snow on the ground.  Not enough to be annoying, but just enough to recover the brown snow, the green trees, and old tracks, making the day more beautiful than ever.

Tustamena Lake is quite large.  25 miles by 5 miles, about.  We were concerned about open water, overflow, and old ice pile ups from previous thaws and refreezes, but the LE leading us didn't seem too concerned.  The lake that morning was enveloped in a thick white fog, making it impossible to tell where snow ended and fog began.  Our world was nothing but white, everywhere.

We stopped first at an old cabin, one that dates back to the early 1900s that is still used my trappers and hunters today.  The we went to another island to set up our first sound stations of the day.  We continued along the coast and looked at high cliffs filled with animal tracks and scars from previous landscapes.

We passed a coyote stuck in a leg hold.  We stopped and watched him for a bit, but he didn't seem scared by us or our machines.  He gnawed at the wood as he stayed at us with curious eyes.  There's something about making direct eye contact with an animal that can't be described.  It's like a short bit of unspoken communication.

We continued to set up another sound station, then stopped at another cabin to enjoy the crisp "warm" air while we ate lunch.  Gary told us the history behind this cabin and how it was almost destroyed in the wildfire that scarred the entire landscape behind us.

We left the second cabin and made our way to the end of the lake.  Fog and clouds hid most of the view of the mountains and the glacier that was in front of us, but what little bit of the view we could make out was spectacular.  We sat on our sleds for about 30 minutes and watched some of the fog burn off, but then we started to make our way back.

The lake was smooth, for the most part, and we cruised back the entire way at about 45mph.  As much as I would have rather been on a boat, it was fantastic that in mid March, we could still be enjoying mild winter and amazing winter recreation.

It's days like today that remind me why I love field work and why we travel to locations like Southern Alaska to do field work.  I wouldn't change this for anything. 

"I'll never know the full extent of all this.  I'm okay with that."