Monday, March 19, 2012

Narrative: My Silence

My innocent and naive childhood years were spent in Alaska just South of Fairbanks on Eielson Air Force Base.  Most of my memories take place outside, from winter to summer, and everything in between.  What I don’t remember, is ever hearing silence.  Winters were filled with snow machining and the slow but steady traffic that occurred on base.  Summers were spent doing endless amounts of camping, but as a family of 5 we were always making noise.  Even while fishing I remember the sound of the casting and reeling of our rods and old men cracking old men jokes on neighboring boats.  In-between all of that was the constant reminder of living on a base: Fighter jets, a noise that as a military brat, I loved hearing and still do to this day.

When I moved to SE Virginia during my pubescent teen years, the noises changed, but I still never remember silence.  Living in the suburbs of Hampton Roads meant the endless noise of man-made sound pollution, but I was fortunate enough to live in a smaller town moderately separated from it all.  Our house was situated at the end of our road, nestled gently beside an inlet that led to the ocean.
Spring and summer were filled with crickets, the moaning of bull frogs, and the constant hum of motor boats cruising in and out of our small inlet.  Noise from our distant neighbors echoed across the water as the sounds bounced back and forth like unanswered conversation.   Most of my winter memories are on the ski slopes, listening to my snowboard carving fresh corduroy, the chairlifts crank and pop as they passed over us, and the sound of starting buzzers and cheering when I began slalom racing in college.

My world was rarely, if ever, silent.  Not the real silence at least.  The kind of silence that is so quiet it’s almost deafening.  The kind where when you stand still, you hear your own ears ringing.  The kind of silence that is peaceful, but at the same time, terrifying.

After spending almost 10 years in Virginia, I left the big cities and began seasonal work in South-Central Idaho.  Most of my summer was spent in the desert.  I camped on the job, miles away from the nearest city, and on the weekends I hiked and backpacked the majestic Sawtooth Mountains.  Desolate dirt roads, high alpine lakes, and the persistent smell of Ponderosa Pine entered my soul and never left, even when I did go into town.

I had found a peacefulness and serenity I had never experienced anywhere else and for the first time I thought I had experienced true silence.  But as I sat to enjoy a peaceful lake on one of my many hikes, I realized I had only escaped the man-made noises.  Aspen trees shook in the wind, birds and squirrels exchanged gentle conversation, and the streams gurgled with the snow melt that continued well into October.

My world was not silent.

With my seasonal work ending in Idaho, I began new work in Southern Alaska on the Kenai Peninsula.  My long plane ride, filled with a constant coughing, crying, and whispering, left me wondering if I would find the same peace I had discovered in Idaho.  My job, ironically enough, was going to be to listen.  To explore the different parts of the Kenai NWR and simply listen.

I lived in town.  Snow machines, snow plows, and airplanes were a constant reminder of civilization.  Darkness came earlier than I remembered, but it never masked the noise.  Even on the job, I was surrounded by an uncanny amount of sound.  Packs shifting, snowshoes crunching snow, the heavy breathing that inevitable occurred from our winter hikes.  And during snow machine trips there was always the loud hum of the machine's engine.

Silence felt impossible.

When I wasn't in the field, I was stuck inside, listening.  We recorded sound for days at a time, sometimes months, and it was my job to listen to every single recording and document what I heard. Snow machines, airplanes, ravens, chickadees and wind were all common occurrences that came to me as no surprise.  They were all things I heard on a regular basis.

What did surprise me though, was the amount of silence I documented, which easily made up the majority of the "noise".

On our recordings though, silence wasn't recorded as silence, but instead as white noise.  A jargon of sounds unpleasant to the ear.  Silence created the same noise as a TV not on a receiving channel.  A blur of absolutely nothing.  It caught me off guard.  Silence had a sound.

So I made it my goal to find this silence that I heard.  On our next outing, once my coworker and I reached the end of our hike, we sat, closed our eyes, and we listened.  It was the dead of winter.  Early January, no wind, but a bitter negative 23 degrees below Fahrenheit. I was convinced we were the only animals stupid enough to be on the rocky outcrop, exposed.


I heard nothing.

There was no white noise like the recording suggested.  But instead, it was like for a moment my entire world was paralyzed.  All my senses ceased to exist.

I heard nothing. I smelled nothing. I tasted nothing. I saw nothing. I felt nothing.

And that's when the silence became deafening. 

I began to hear a ringing in my ears.  It reminded me of how I felt after loud concerts, only there was no music.  My entire body shook from the feeling of my heart beating and I could literally feel my breathing slow. I opened my eyes, but my entire world was frozen. A photographic image in my head that even as I looked around, didn't move.

I had experienced silence.

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Old News - Early March: Largest Solar Flare in 5 Years

On March 6th there was a giant solar flare, apparently the largest one in 5 years, creating 2 M-Class flares and one X-Class flare (AKA - Really big).

Solar flares are classified as A, B, C, M or X according to peak flux of 100 to 800 picometer X-rays near Earth (Yeah I don't know what that means either).  X-Class flares are big enough though that they can give people on airplanes small radiation doses if they are flying near the poles.  Pretty intense.

Aurora in Fairbanks
So  solar flare is a sudden brightening observed over the sun surface, which is interpreted as a large energy release.  The flare ejects clouds of electrons, ions, and atoms in space.  Then these clouds reach Earth a day or two afterwards.

So why do I bring this up?  The aurora borealis, of course.  :) Auroras (AKA the Norther Lights) is caused by the collision of energetic charges particles with atoms high in the atmosphere.  Big solar flare = epic northern lights.

Seeing the northern lights is fairly rare in southern Alaska compared to Central Alaska.  So while giant flares such as this one to actually pose risks to Earth, it was good news regardless.  We had visibility down here for a couple days.  And the views were amazing.  :)  My photography does not do it justice.




"Look at the stars,
Look how they shine for you,
And everything you do."
-Coldplay


Friday, March 16, 2012

March 16th, 2012 - Is Silence Going Extinct?

Today was mostly a lab day for me.  My boss took off... surprise surprise.  So I stayed inside and played with data.  Nothing glorious, but exciting nonetheless.  It's always nice to see raw data start to actually turn into something meaningful!

On a more serious note though, I am daily getting more and more excited about my new job in Denali National Park.  The more information I get about it, the more I feel like this move is the right one and big big things are going to come from it.

My point in bringing that up is that there was an article in the NY Times today about the work being done at Denali, the work I get to help with!.  Pretty awesome that the field of Soundscape Ecology is finally getting some recognition, the recognition it deserves.

Here's the link.  It's a long read, but worth at least reading the beginning.  Is Silence Going Extinct?

It's not about finding silence or finding noise.  It's about finding how it all fits together.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

March 15th - Snowmachining Tustamena Lake

Already - Gunna try something new in hopes that I'll be updating this on a more weekly basis!


Thursday March 18th, 2012:

We went snow machining today on the south side of Tustamena Lake.  It was me, my supervisor, and one of our L.E. guys.  The morning had started out snowy.  We had about 3 inches of fresh snow on the ground.  Not enough to be annoying, but just enough to recover the brown snow, the green trees, and old tracks, making the day more beautiful than ever.

Tustamena Lake is quite large.  25 miles by 5 miles, about.  We were concerned about open water, overflow, and old ice pile ups from previous thaws and refreezes, but the LE leading us didn't seem too concerned.  The lake that morning was enveloped in a thick white fog, making it impossible to tell where snow ended and fog began.  Our world was nothing but white, everywhere.

We stopped first at an old cabin, one that dates back to the early 1900s that is still used my trappers and hunters today.  The we went to another island to set up our first sound stations of the day.  We continued along the coast and looked at high cliffs filled with animal tracks and scars from previous landscapes.

We passed a coyote stuck in a leg hold.  We stopped and watched him for a bit, but he didn't seem scared by us or our machines.  He gnawed at the wood as he stayed at us with curious eyes.  There's something about making direct eye contact with an animal that can't be described.  It's like a short bit of unspoken communication.

We continued to set up another sound station, then stopped at another cabin to enjoy the crisp "warm" air while we ate lunch.  Gary told us the history behind this cabin and how it was almost destroyed in the wildfire that scarred the entire landscape behind us.

We left the second cabin and made our way to the end of the lake.  Fog and clouds hid most of the view of the mountains and the glacier that was in front of us, but what little bit of the view we could make out was spectacular.  We sat on our sleds for about 30 minutes and watched some of the fog burn off, but then we started to make our way back.

The lake was smooth, for the most part, and we cruised back the entire way at about 45mph.  As much as I would have rather been on a boat, it was fantastic that in mid March, we could still be enjoying mild winter and amazing winter recreation.

It's days like today that remind me why I love field work and why we travel to locations like Southern Alaska to do field work.  I wouldn't change this for anything. 

"I'll never know the full extent of all this.  I'm okay with that."

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Next job - Alaska picked me

The more I stay here, the more it feels like home.  Which for anyone who knows how much I fell in love with Idaho, that's a pretty big statement to make!

Denali
Short and to the point: I'm staying in Alaska for the next 8 months.  It's official: I'm going to spend my summer/fall working for NPS as a biotech in Denali National Park.  May 7th to November 2nd.  :D

What's crazy, is what led me to this exact moment.  I had so much ALL figured out.    And one little event changed my entire life.  My jeep dieing.  I like to think that everything happens for a reason.  And I'd also like to think that beautiful red off road mean machine (jeep) picked me.  Because I never would have applied to my current job had my jeep not died.

Because I came to work at Kenai NWR, I have gained a lot of experience with soundscape research, which is what prepared me for this job at Denali.  A GS-05 six month position with the National Park Service.

This job has led me to a lot of others things, also, of course.  :)


Regardless, I'm now here through October.  And after that?  Who knows.  Maybe I'll stick around a little longer.  <3

"But I can't go back,
And I don't want to,
'Cause all my mistakes,
They brought me to you."

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Alaskan Update - Silence

Sound Station
Okay, I guess I'm over due for a good update on my job in Alaska.

My loneliness was short-lived in January.  About a week after I landed back in Kenai, I received a late Christmas present: A new co-worker.  I was hesitant at first, but she did grow on me.  Hard for someone not to when you are with them 24/7.  Regardless, we got a lot of work done, I stayed motivated, and it brought back out the fun side of me, which was nice.  3 weeks later she left though and I once again find myself mostly alone.




Mt. Redoubt at Sunrise
Research as been... well, going as well as it can.  The PhD student I work for is perpetually late, unorganized, stressed, irritable, and lazy.  Not to mention the fact he hates living and working in Alaska.  He's clearly lacking some mad Vitamin D in his life.  It's frustrating since I specifically picked this job so I could work with a PhD student and work one-on-one at that level of research.  Really get my hands dirty and see a well created project.  Well, I was quite wrong.  This project has mostly taught me how not to run a project.  Which is valuable in itself, but still quite frustrating.

Great gray owl - Rare on the refuge. :)



The PhD student also doesn't particularly enjoy the research he is conducting, which makes it all the more discouraging when I'm making no money and am 4000 miles away from friends, family, and snowboarding so I can help him.  It makes my time here feel rather pointless and unimportant.





Chugach Mtn range while snowmachining
Outside of the research, I am absolutely loving it here.  I could easily see myself spending the summer here on a different project.  I'm even planning on looking into UAF for graduate school.  The last 3 weeks have been filled with a number of hikes and adventures with my co-worker, Chelsy.  A lot of very beautiful areas of which I can only imagine what they look like in summer, when the wildflowers bloom and everything still becomes alive.

I do a lot of listening here.  It's half of my job, to listen.  And we ALL already know winter is quiet.  Especially when it's snowing.  There's this silence that makes your ears ring.  But what I didn't realize was how silent some days can be.

View from Hideout Trail

It's like ALL the senses get paralyzed.  I didn't notice until we had a "spring" day earlier this week.  The last 2 or 3 weeks have been bitter cold.  About -20F.  It's finally warmed up to about 20 or 25F.  And before I continue, I want to put that temperature change into perspective: That's a 40 degree temperature change.  So for all you east coasters, imagine it being 30F and then it being 70F.  It's a big jump, and it feels it.

So that spring day we had early this week, the temperatures hovered right around freezing.  It must have been about 34.  Definitely above freezing, since snow was actually melting.  But, for the first time all winter, all my senses were alive.  There was that wet warm spring smell to the air.  And with snow melting and falling off trees, and birds flying around, my eyes were moving to watch everything.  And then there was the sound of water and birds and a different crunch of the snow.
Epitome of silence.

It was empowering, somehow.  A very different feeling from the stillness of winter.  No sights.  No smells.  No tastes.  No Sounds.  Just a silent winter.  It gets to you, for sure.  Most of my winter experience are on a ski slope.  Constant stimulation of the senses.  It's just different here.

So the next question everyone keeps asking me is what's next?  Well, I'm in the constant battle with myself to tackle the GREs and start contacting potential advisors for graduate school.  I'm working 2 jobs right now, adding up to about 65 hours a week, so that's been mostly curbed for now.  So graduate school eventually, and until then, I've had an irresistible offer made to me for a seasonal position in eastern Tennessee.  Not my dream job, but logistically, it's perfect.  And close to the Smokies, which I've never to!  I'm waiting till the middle of nest week to decide, but as of now, that's my plan. My next adventure with my new jeep. <3


[ <3 ]  Silence might be the loudest noise I've ever battled.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

4000 Miles away

"But the postcard that's taped to the freezer reads:
"Wish you were here."
How I wish I could disappear."
----------------------------------------



And another new year begins.  2012. I was fortunate that despite being roughly 4000 miles away from home, I was able to be with family for the holidays. 

My (long) trip home started on Thursday December 22nd at 7:45 pm AKST.  Short flight from Kenai, AK to Anchorage, AK.  3.5 hour lay over followed by a red-eye headed to Salt Lake City, UT.  After little to no sleep, I was exhausted and irritable.  No good.  Quickly got back on a plane headed to Detroit, MI for another 3 hour lay over.  Rested and mostly apathetic, I slunk in my chair when my gate announced there would be a 2 hour delay. I waited, made some phone calls, and finally around 10:00 pm EST on Friday December 23rd, arrived in Burlington, VT.  Roughly 22 hours of travel.  Woohoo.

Christmas in Vermont - A white Christmas, at least!

Then onward to New Jersey for a night - a 7 hour drive.  Then the final 8 hour drive home to Virginia.  Christmas with my nephews and boyfriend, then another 5 hour drive to Blacksburg when I got to spend 3 days with Mike - Much needed.  :)

Now I spend my final hours in Virginia here, writing this, postponing sleep and tomorrow!  Since tomorrow I make another LONG flight back to Kenai, AK.


So my 2011 recap?  It seems short in comparison.

I continued to race on the snowboard team at VT.  Spent a week in Colorado snowboarding with family.  Went to conclave in Alabama.  Did my first backpacking trip. Graduated from undergrad, then drove to Idaho - Alone.  Spent 4.5 months working for the Idaho Dept. of Fish and Game.  Spent a week in Rocky Mountain National Park, then 4 weeks in Blacksburg before celebrating Thanksgiving and flying to Alaska.

Who knows what 2012 holds.  I'm in Alaska for another 3-4 months.  But I got fingers crossed dearly for this job in Idaho I applied to that starts late March.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed.  Fingers crossed   Fingers crossed........  Fingers crossed.

Goals (Or resolutions, I suppose):
- More adventures - AKA, enjoy the small stuff.
- Find a summer job I will love filled with meaningful research.
- Study for the GRE.  Take the GRE.  Pass the GRE. Get into Graduate School.
- Support my brother, in whatever way I can.
- Follow my heart.

Why is it that no matter where I am, I will keep striving for something better?

"This must be it.
Welcome to the New Year."